#4 Rolex: Now You’re Just Somebody That I Used To Know

A Few Awesome Pieces of History from a Brand that's So Hard to Love These Days

Author

Ginger Professor
November 10, 2023

TLDR

Whether you are interested in watches or not, there’s no denying how awesome and intriguing the Rolex story is. Most people don’t know the real Rolex.

There once was a time where the brand was about more than just hype, false scarcity, flippers and snobbery. Those times are gone, but I figured I’d give you a sense of the Rolex of old and some stories which made me a (regrettable) fan of the brand.

The Whole Lesson

I write this (and likely other future) articles about Rolex with conflicted feelings. 

The rise of Rolex to becoming one of the world’s most recognized brands is incredibly interesting. It lies at the intersection of astounding engineering, beautiful design, legendary marketing, corporate reinvention and a few key global events. It’s actually one of the best stories of business history out there. 

The problem for me when it comes to Rolex though, is that the Rolex I’ve fallen in love with is not the Rolex that exists today. 

When I think about what Rolex is in 2023, it feels like what happens when your best friend in elementary school becomes cool in high school, changes into a different person and ditches you. Suddenly, that friend you shared so much with no longer resembles the person you used to know and you are left with nothing but feelings of sadness, resentment and hope that one day, you will find a way back to each other. 

I don’t think Rolex is ever turning back but that doesn’t mean we can’t be nostalgic and remind ourselves of the good ol’ days when being associated with Rolex didn’t imply you were a … (takes deep breath). 

Vapid, attention seeking, insta hypebeast flipper who is stopping those who actually like watches from getting one at the price it's supposed to sell at. 

This was never what Rolex was about and every time I think about the brand, it reminds me of how disconnected it has become from what made it originally special. 

Case and point, the Rolex song by Ayo & Teo…

I hate this song so much…

Can you tell this is a touchy subject for me?

Anyway, here are a few random pieces of Rolex history that swept me off my feet when I first started to learn about the brand’s incredible history.

I know what you are probably thinking… 

“You are just a sucker for Rolex marketing.” 

That might be true, but marketing is just about amplifying what is special and differentiated about a product in unique ways. 

Time to start this article…

The Founding Idea

The original idea behind Rolex was to create a watch company focused on products at the perfect intersection of price and performance. At the time, accurate, reliable and affordable wrist watches didn’t exist, so there was a clear gap in the market to be filled. That’s where Rolex started.  

Overcoming Early Mishaps

When Hans Wilsdorf (founder of Rolex) made the decision to start the company, he traveled from Germany to London since it was the commercial center of Europe back then. Along the way, he had his start-up capital (33,000 gold marks) stolen. He eventually figured things out, but I can imagine it took a lot of resilience and perseverance. 

Roots in Technological Innovation

Rolex’s early products gained popularity because of their technological innovation and manufacturing breakthroughs. The Rolex Oyster (which came out in 1926/7) was the first fully waterproof and dustproof watch ever made. Fast forward to 1945, Rolex debuted the Datejust which was the world’s first self winding, waterproof, dustproof certified chronometer to also have a date wheel. The watch was so revolutionary that it won the award for the wristwatch of the 20th century and is now credited as one of the most important watches in horological history. 

An old ad for the Rolex Oyster. Take a look at what the copy is focused on. 

A Magnifying Splash of Inspiration

One of the most identifiable physical characteristics of Rolex watches is the “Cyclops” magnifier that blows up the watch’s date display at 3 o'clock. Apparently, Hans Wilsdorf’s 2nd wife Betty had difficulty reading the date on her Datejust because of poor eyesight, so Hans needed to find a solution to this problem (happy wife, happy life right?). Legend has it that the inspiration for the Cyclops occurred after a droplet of water hit the dial of Hans’ watch when he was washing his hands or taking a bath. We don’t know for sure.

Can you see the resemblance? 

Featuring Women Doing Amazing Things When Nobody Else Was

Influencer marketing has been a cornerstone of Rolex’s marketing engine since the beginning. In fact, they were one of the first brands EVER to feature women doing amazing things as a way to promote product. In 1927, the company partnered with Mercedes Gleitze in her harrowing attempts to swim across the English channel as a way to show the functional durability and timekeeping prowess of the Oyster under harsh conditions. 

Launch ad for the Rolex Oyster that was taken out in the Daily Mail to celebrate Mercedes Gleitze. While I don’t know this for sure, legend has it this is one of the first first real examples of influencer and brand marketing coming together. 

The Submariner’s (and others) Military History

Although it’s now considered the marquee watch finance bros get with their first bonus on Wall Street, the Rolex Submariner has a deep military history and was the tool of choice for Marnie warriors. The Royal Navy, French Navy and Navy SEALS all lauded the Sub’s capabilities for being an essential combat tool. In fact, the Sub was issued to SEALs in the 1960s. Check out these AWESOME ads and pics.

Two Ripped Taiwanese Frogman wearing Submariners in 1958. How cool is that?!

The ad reads, "Your looking at the Rolex Submariner. For years, it's been standard gear for submariners, frogmen and all who make their living on the seas."

U.S. NAVY SEALs, Harry Humphries and Fran Scollise in Vietnam wearing their Navy issued Rolex Submariner watches.

An Unexpected Rivalry

In the 1960s, Rolex faced an existential threat from a seemingly unthinkable competitor, Bulova. Back then, accuracy and durability were at the center of what made Rolex special and Bulova’s Accutron was causing major concerns. Astronauts and spy plane pilots at the time loved the Accutron because of its accuracy. Check out the ad below and take notice of the copy.

Real Tools For Professionals 

The origins of Rolex’s professional line (A.K.A the watches you will never be able to get) were actually tools for professionals to do their jobs at one point. The GMT Master was created in partnership with Pan Am Airlines so that pilots could more easily traverse time zones, the Milgauss was made for scientists who were working in areas of heavy magnetism, the Submariner was meant for divers and the Explorer was made for people who actually hung out in caves. 

It makes complete sense why the watches across this product line were advertised in the context of professional pursuits like these. That doesn’t happen anymore.

The Silent Mastermind Behind the Crown (or Coronet if you want to be technically arcuate) 

While Rolex (quite rightly) has been dubbed a marketing genius, the company has had a longstanding partnership with the marketing agency JWT (J. Walter Thompson) that dates back as early as 1947. This is an important call out because it speaks to the fact that Rolex’s marketing success was not just its own. The company clearly had a lot of help and guidance along the way. Some academics argue that without JWT’s foundational work, global scale and unique understanding of consumer psychology during the 1960s, Rolex would not be the brand it is today.  

Wrapping Up

So there you have it. 

I’ve outed myself as a Rolex fanboy but hopefully you understand why. Yes, there’s lots of baggage around Rolex and a lot of people look down on those who wear them these days. Yes, the brand is no longer like what it once was. Yes, it’s impossible to get them.

But, one thing remains true. Rolex makes a kick ass product that will last forever if you take care of it. The same can’t be said about the Apple Watch. 

For the next issue, I’m deciding between the origin story of Exchange Traded Funds (ETFs) or something about career development. Both will be written but I’ll keep you on the edge of your seat to find out what’s next. 

Until Next Time, 

Ginger P.

The Ginger Professor explicitly represents the personal thoughts and views of the author only. It does not reflect the thoughts or views of any current or former employer or client of the author. All information referenced and contained in the article enclosed is for informational purposes only and does not represent advice of any kind.  

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